We hiked about 10 miles today in about 5 hr:45. Nice section of forest out of Larasoana and mostly overcast - a good day for getting into the zone and processing. The sky started to clear up by the foothills, wheat fields, and into the suburbs into historic city center of Pamplona. Grateful for the sun reprieve as yesterday was a bit too hot. Overall the trail's mood was maybe more goal-focused on getting to Pamplona...not necessarily less social or less camaraderie - there were encouraging words and helping each other (find the way, or bandage up a blister)...but there were a lot of hurting feet and people looking tired, powering through toward the end to Pamplona (which makes sense as that's the trail goal for many regardless of where one started). We sat down at a cafeteria tables set outside on along the trail and Jane was nursing some blisters. A Canadian woman and her friend from upstate New York helped Jane with some needed duct tape which seemed to help her a lot.
Notes about the Camino guide: I'm not totally convinced the mileage is accurate in this guide. It seemed like today was much shorter than yesterday - and yesterday seemed really tiring and long (comparing the distances I was preparing myself for). Also, Zubiri is really cute/not at all an industrial town (as the guidebook says). Larasoana is a tiny village with a mini-grocery and no restaurants (although we made evening sandwiches of ham, bread, cheese, tomato and wine available from the mini-grocery - or we could have bought the pilgrim meal). Zubiri, though, seemed more ready to serve Pilgrims. Also, there are alburques and guest houses in most towns/villages/hamlets. And, there are many good places to sleep outside well off the trail in the mountains especially. About Cizur vs. Pamplona: I can understand why the Camino guide suggests ending 5 k past Pamplona in Cizur. You'd miss the city but perhaps keep the quiet nature experience. Also, a big plus of going to Cizur is you'd tackle the big windmill hill early - which makes a huge difference. Also, it would only be a 12-13 mile day to Puente La Reina. All that said, it sure is nice to treat yourself to a hotel in lovely Pamplona!
Cool breakfast spot on the Arga river about an hour down from Larasoana
We remembered this great little pizza place in Irotz from the last trip; we were too early for it today.
Wheat fields. The trail is along a bike path for a bit here. The sky was begining to clear
Cool ruin ~2 miles up from Arre
Jane, about to cross the bridge into Arre (about 4 k from Pamplona)
Arre bridge (looking up. The buildings are behind me).
4 k after Arre: Bridge leading to the fortress wall of Pamplona's historic center
The Camino goes around part of Pamplona's fortress wall
The Ayuntamiento building in Pamplona
Calle St. Nicholas, Pamplona (near Plaza de Castillo)
Sangria y pinchos (aka tapas)
Practical things for proximo vez:
- Plan early morning hiking during june/july w lunch break and ending by 1:30 or 2. Today was a lovely hike with cool breezes and temps in the 80s - vs. 90s yesterday (way too hot but doable if well-hydrated). Hiking early makes a HUGE difference.
- Only really need to pack: 1 pair of hiking pants (if you can hand wash daily/near daily). One skirt or something for around town. 2 hiking shirts (wash the other daily) - unless it rains or you get lazy/don't want to wash clothes daily. 2 socks. Sarong a must. Bring packets of tide or a dry soap powder. Safety pins (to keep clothes on the line outside), plenty of advil a must, sunscreen, buff. Water bladder and hiking sticks a must. Hat, light caribiner. An extension cord is really useful. (Why are plugs on the opposite side of the room from the bed or work space?)
- So far I have not used/can't justify carrying at the moment (off the top of my head): day hammock, sleeping bag (though a travel sheet is good), PJs, 3rd shirt, running shorts, 3rd socks, swim suit, snack bars or any food, journal book (since I have my computer), rain jacket - but I think I can leave the fleece and use the rain coat more for warmth. I haven't used the scarf yet either nor medical tape (knock on wood).
- Wish I had: 2 extra ziplocks to carry lunch, spandex-y capri things (to just below knee). Jane wishes she had her small fan (portable device) - it was hot last 2 nights. Also, my hot water coil broke (overheated maybe without a converter?) but we could get away with hot tap water, via, and stolen sugar packets. Perhaps a light spoon (for stirring or soup).
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