Tuesday, June 13, 2017

(Camino de Santiago, Spain): Roncesvalles to Viscarret (Bizkarret)

A gorgeous hike from "Ronces" to the hamlet of Viscarret (~7.5-8 miles).  We're taking it easy this first day due to my recovering ankle (so far, so good) and us being generally out of backpacking shape.  As it turns, out, this was the perfect distance for being able to leave Ronces late after a leisurely breakfast and lolly-gagging through lovely lovely forests and hamlets - a great day.

Hotel Roncesvalles - a converted monastery.  
Crystal clear skies today but yesterday was socked in with fog


A cool-looking (chocolate banded?) snail 

The trail right out of Roncesvalles

This cross was installed here to protect pilgrims from the witches of the forest.  We learned later that we were hiking on "Tuesday, the 13th" which is a bad luck day, like Friday the 13th.

What is this flower?

Leaving Burguete



Down into Espinal

Buttercups

Cool town seal. 
A lot of towns/cities have Camino seals embedded into their 
sidewalks along the Camino's path. 

Leaving Espinal

Looking back to Espinal as we hike up Alto Mezquiriz--the highest elevation point of today's walk.

Columbine (Aquilegia pyrenaica)

View from lovely Alto Mezquiriz

The SOS is really crop covers (maybe for olives)

Picnic at Alto Mezquiriz before the decent into Viskarret

Bird ID? (Magpie?)

Beech forest 



Concrete/rock slope to Viscarret

Church in Viscarret

A cool sundial on Bar Juan's wall.  It was, indeed, 5:30 pm. What drew my attention was the resemblance of a Camino shell shape - coincidence?

Notes to self/advise for others... for next time: it was beginning to be too warm after 1:30 or 2, so the preferred routine might be to pack a lunch for the trail, head out on the trail early, and either find your next place to stay by 2 or take a long siesta and continue in the cooler hours.  In the summer, it stays light until almost 10 pm.   Lodging: usually places will include a light breakfast, so pack or buy protein enroute (or see if your ho(s)tel can whip up some eggs or protein for an extra euro); also get the pilgrim's meal in the evenings  - a well-priced multiple-course meal including desert and wine.  Also, wine is cheap and there are many grocery markets along the way. 

Pack as light as possible - don't take an ounce more than you need to.  We loved our decision to get a walking sticks in St. Jean (super nice telescoping sticks for crazy cheap - what would cost $60-100 at REI costed $16-22 euro there).

Packed items I used today (I'm going to do this daily to help me pack for next time): comfy walking shoes with inserts, sandals, flip flops, quick dry clothes (really only need 2 sets of everything if you can hand-wash laundry every night), dry laundry soap, sink stopper, basic toiletries, line/cord, 3 safety pins (hold clothes on line due to wind), extension cord with adapter plug, backpack with water bladder, walking stick(s), silicon cup, emergency, sarong, sleeping bag liner, sunglasses, camera with plug, chapstick, wallet/euros, iphone/cord (with "maps.me" app- very handy!), ear buds, pocket knife (with wine opener), advil, tiny sunscreen (although forested most of today), hairbands (already lost one), sunglasses, camino guide, laptop, credential book.  I wish I had spandex type running capris-length pants (exactly like Jane's)...and a much lighter pack ;). 

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